The most popular among buyers are jewelry made of 375 and 585 gold. What is their difference? Let's try to compare these types of gold alloys.
Korloff ring
Many may immediately wonder why gold alloys are needed in general. The need for them is explained by the fact that pure gold is not used in jewelry production due to its softness. To solve this problem, other metals are added to gold to make the alloy hard and durable.
In color, 585 gold alloy is closest to pure gold.
The fineness indicated on a gold product means the proportion of pure gold in the alloy.
375 gold has greater hardness
Although many people associate lower pure gold content with lower quality products, in reality 375 gold is a harder and therefore more durable alloy than 585 gold.
Gold is a fairly soft metal, and its lower content in the alloy leads to increased hardness, and therefore wear resistance. For example, a 375 gold ring wears out more slowly than a 585 gold ring.
However, the wear resistance of the alloy depends not only on the content of pure gold in it, but also on the type and amount of other metals included in its composition. In addition, there are other factors that affect the strength of the alloy. Therefore, it is likely that a product made of 585 gold with high quality workmanship can be more durable.
How to wear products correctly?
- It is better to remove jewelry while doing housework. This will protect them from damage and aggressive household chemicals. You cannot swim in public pools, as chlorine-containing compounds are added there.
- Be sure to remove jewelry before visiting saunas and baths, since an environment saturated with hot steam and aromas is not the best place for gold. In addition, you can get burned.
- It is not advisable to swim in it. Sea water will not harm gold, but the locks of bracelets and chains often contain steel springs, which can begin to rust.
- 375 gold contains copper , which is oxidized by sweat. Therefore, it is necessary to remove jewelry before sports training.
- Many creams and ointments contain mercury , which reacts with gold. It is better to remove jewelry before cosmetic procedures.
375 gold is contraindicated for those who are allergic to nickel
This is the biggest drawback of 375 gold alloy - the nickel in its composition can cause an allergic reaction.
Because the percentage of nickel in this gold alloy is higher (compared to 585 and higher alloys), products made from it are more likely to cause skin irritation and other allergy symptoms.
Jewelry made of 585 gold practically does not cause allergic reactions, and yet people prone to allergies are recommended to test the product first.
How to independently distinguish from a fake
To distinguish a 375-carat product from a fake, standard and simple rules apply, which are also used in other gold samples. The easiest way is to bite the product with your teeth. This method will allow you to clearly identify a fake 375 sample, since it is quite hard. If you see a fake, the product will bend or a small dent will appear on it.
Another simple way that will allow you to distinguish a fake from a genuine product is to use a ceramic cup. Ceramics are much stronger than any gold alloy. If you rub your item against the bottom of a cup or plate that is made of ceramic, you will be able to see a yellow mark. If you have a fake in front of you, the mark will not be yellow, but will have a black tint.
What to choose: 375 or 585 gold
- It is impossible to say for sure which type of gold alloy is better. When choosing, there are many factors to consider, as well as individual preferences. If you want everyday jewelry that you will wear all the time, then it is better to opt for a product made from 375 gold - it is harder and more scratch-resistant. A ring made of 585 gold will wear out faster and become scratched if worn constantly. An additional advantage is the lower price of products made from 375 gold alloy.
- As noted above, diamond jewelry is typically made from at least 585 gold alloy.
- If you are allergic to nickel, it is best to avoid jewelry made from 375 gold and opt for jewelry made from 585 gold or a higher purity alloy.
- As for appearance, it’s up to you to decide which of these types of gold looks more attractive, and whether it’s worth paying extra for a higher standard.
What compositions are there?
375 gold may vary significantly in composition and, accordingly, color and characteristics.
If you add about 60% copper to the alloy, it will have a reddish tint. Such a product quickly oxidizes and becomes covered with a dark coating. This is compensated by the high strength of the composition. Even small decoration elements will not be easy to break.
An alloy containing approximately 20% silver and 40% copper, the color will be pink. The metal will be a little less durable, but more ductile.
When silver and copper are mixed in equal parts, approximately 30% each, the alloy turns out to be rich yellow. Hardness will decrease, and ductility will accordingly increase. If there is approximately 40% silver and 20% copper, the color of gold will be even yellow.
A composition in which there is no copper and silver is 62.5% will turn out white. The strength will be significantly inferior to an alloy with the addition of copper.
To obtain a delicate creamy shade, approximately 40% palladium and 20% silver are added. This alloy is rare, and its cost is higher. The reason is that palladium is a fairly expensive metal.
Silver makes gold more ductile and malleable, and also lowers the melting point. Copper, in turn, increases the hardness of the alloy. At the same time, it does not impair its malleability and ductility. The more copper is added to gold, the more pronounced red tint it has.
How much does this decoration cost?
Decoration with spraying will cost less
The cost of any gold product will depend on the ratio of the content of gold and alloy metals, the work of the jeweler and the store’s markup. The price of one gram of 375 noble metal will not be so high compared to other alloys. If you consider the purchase of such a product as an investment or a reserve for a rainy day, then this is not a suitable product. The best way to make a profitable investment is to buy gold bars at a bank, where they are offered to everyone.
The cost of the precious metal is constantly growing. To find out the price per gram, you need to multiply the current price per gram of gold by 0.375. The obtained figures will not have any meaning if jewelry of this standard has to be taken to a pawnshop, where it will be valued as scrap gold. The law strictly controls institutions that are engaged in sales and purchasing. It is recommended to contact those establishments that have a license and other documents regulating the activities of the office.
Impact of impurities on quality
Naturally, a low percentage of precious metal content in a person unfamiliar with jewelry
Coins
kitchen, can raise doubts: is it worth buying such jewelry and will a small amount of gold affect the quality of the product?
The store, as a seller of the product, is, of course, interested in selling more expensive products, so getting an honest answer from the employees is unlikely to happen. Most likely, the consumer will be told that the purchased product of low quality quickly loses its attractive appearance, is easily scratched, and in general, a purchase of this kind is a waste of money. But in reality it is not so simple.
Let's reveal a little secret: the quality (and color) of a jewelry alloy is largely influenced by the alloy, that is, third-party metals introduced into the overall combination. After all, jewelry is not made from pure gold either - it is too soft and sensitive to various external influences. Therefore, you need to approach the issue of the quality of the 375 sample correctly, namely, obtain accurate information about the full composition of the alloy.
So, for example, a large amount of copper alloy (about 60%) really makes 375 gold extremely dull, with an unsightly red tint. In this case, the metal quickly loses its shine, it’s true. But such an alloy will be much stronger than 585 and 750 samples - copper gives the final product not only super-hardness, but also elasticity ideal for processing.
A moderate introduction of copper and silver into the overall combination allows you to create an alloy of a beautiful pink hue, the addition of palladium makes gold white, and pure silver gives a beautiful yellow shine.
Of course, jewelry masterpieces and highly artistic precious crafts are not made from gold marked 375, but it is an absolutely irreplaceable material for the production of wedding rings, cigarette cases, watch bracelets, and inlaid decorative items.
Reviews from customers who purchased wedding rings with such a mark are mostly positive, because the alloy is characterized by good strength and long wear.
I would also like to note the fact that they “don’t like” 375 gold purity exclusively in Russia. Western youth happily wear various jewelry made from this 9-carat alloy. Fact to note: 375 gold is fully “exploited” by manufacturers of luxury pens.
Another myth about 375 purity: jewelry quickly turns black due to the low gold content.
It is necessary to dispel the unkind myth about the 375 jewelry mark, which claims that all jewelry and products made from it not only darken over time, but even acquire an indelible blackness. And this happens allegedly due to the fact that there is too little gold in this alloy.
It is unknown where such rumors came from, but they mislead many potential buyers and force them to refuse profitable and good purchases of products with such markings. After all, in fact, gold 375 of a jewelry hallmark does not lose its shine, is difficult to damage and, of course, does not turn black. It is only important to properly care for it - store, clean, remove during physical labor and sports.
If the sample were truly of poor quality, would it have received a state standard and passed certification? Of course no.
Why does this sample attract buyers?
Jewelry connoisseurs who want to wear precious stones set in gold willingly buy metal of this standard. They are not concerned with the question of what percentage will be in the noble metal into which the precious stone they are interested in will be set. Such jewelry fans are interested in other questions. Will the shine of the metal disappear? How long will a beautiful stone hold on as thin tendrils or is there a risk of losing it?
Thanks to the use of precisely adjusted proportions of impurities, which provide jewelry with increased wear resistance, jewelry owners will not have to be upset by the sight of chips, scratches and surface deformation. Even the thinnest 375 bases, decorated with miniature details, will forever retain their original appearance.
Existing assays and uses of the precious metal
The higher the standard, the heavier and more plastic the decoration. Soft metal is subject to deformation, and its shine disappears due to numerous scratches.
375 has many advantages. It does not change color, does not wear off, does not fade. It is light and does not add extra weight to the jewelry. The noble metal in such an alloy holds stones well. Jewelry is strong and durable.
