Characteristics and features of the Cardinal weaving technique

Venetian weave

A chain of anchor weave, with wide and flat links, which is so strong that it will serve the owner for decades? – Yes, this is a decoration made using the “Venetian” technique.

Venetian weaving chains are very elegant and beautiful

Such a chain consists of many links of a square or rectangular shape, interlocked with each other using metal recesses on them. Since making jewelry is labor-intensive, jewelers make chains by hand, fitting the links to each other. For greater strength, a layer of non-precious metal is created between them, since it is less susceptible to abrasion and deformation. When purchasing jewelry, it is worth remembering that wider options made from large links will last longer than thin airy “Venetian” chains. The “rib” connection of links used in Venetian weaving allows the chain to be movable and take different shapes, making the jewelry comfortable to wear.

Among the options for Venice weaving are straight, double and triple, differing in the thickness and volume of the product. However, different from them is the “round” version, in which each link has a streamlined shape, which makes the chain look sleeker and more feminine. Often, “Venetian” weaving is used to make not only neck chains, but also bracelets and even earrings. If you need to select an expensive jewelry gift, take a closer look at sets of one type of weaving. The decorations in them are in perfect harmony, creating a complete look.

Remember that when choosing a Venetian weave chain, you need to take into account the age, gender and build of the owner. Voluminous options are suitable for older men and women, and sophisticated ones for young girls. When purchasing, it is worth considering that the cost varies depending on the weight of the product, and therefore on its length and thickness.

Elegant luxury of chains with Bismarck weave

Its main characteristic will be the connection of springy spirals. All links are securely fastened together, which gives them special strength and grace.

Bismarcks are a massive multi-core connection of links assembled into a characteristic track, which consists of several rows, often two or three, although products from one row are also found. All types of products are highly reliable and truly durable, thanks to this technology: the service life of such jewelry can be more than 40 years.

Bismarck weaves, despite their somewhat cumbersome nature, are extremely popular among women of all ages because of their extraordinary elegance.

This technique received its characteristic name due to the association with such a famous figure in German history as its first chancellor, Otto von Bismarck. Being a majestic, important and reliable man, he, or rather his name, served as the prototype for the name of the luxurious model that appeared - a tribute to his outstanding personality. Regardless of the material, a gold-silver or ordinary gold-plated chain has acquired a unique look. In addition, the model turned out to be of the highest quality.

The advantages of Bismarck weaving include:

• elegant appearance;
• strong connection of links;
• long service life.

Such jewelry accessories are characterized by increased durability. They are also not afraid of other influence factors. They do not tear or deform over time. Having an increased level of strength, the spirals do not break, tangle, or tear. Such accessories can be worn while resting or sleeping, while walking, and during sports exercises.

Peculiarities

Venetian weaving looks elegant and delicate. It requires a lot of attention and effort, since creating such weaving is painstaking work.

This type of weaving attracts attention with its simplicity, but at the same time it looks expensive and unusual. It wins over the classic anchor chain.

Venice type chain weaving can be of different thicknesses and lengths. Jewelers use a variety of alloys, so among the variety, everyone can choose the ideal option, taking into account their wishes and financial capabilities. A chain made using the Venetian weaving technique is called Venetian.

The Venetian type is a type of anchor. The product consists of links that are wider and flatter than with anchor weaving. The width of the links can be from one to eight millimeters, and the length does not exceed one centimeter.

Elements can be in the form of a square or rectangle. The choice of shape mainly depends on the alloy from which the jewelry is made.

Automatic and manual weaving.

All chains are divided according to manufacturing methods into automatic, fancy, and hand-weaving, full-weight. Most automatic chains are hollow. They look more massive, but are less reliable than full-weight ones. They are distinguished by the material of manufacture. To obtain hollow products, a thin wire of precious metal is wound in strips onto cores made of simple metals, then etched out of the resulting chains. As a result, an emptiness is formed inside, but the weight is lightened and the massiveness is preserved. Automatic weaving includes “perlina”, “snake”, “cardano” and “singapore”. Harnesses and laces are dense weaving, reminiscent of snakes. This group includes the “almond” and “fox tail” weaving.

Perlina are ball links located on a gold wire, fashionable for women. Pearl chains are self-sufficient jewelry, they do not need pendant companions, and for women who understand beauty, this gift is a very significant one. Singapore weaving is a type of armor weaving, where deformed round links are connected in a double row. The connection of the links is done according to the principle of medieval knights' armor: the decorations slide smoothly along the links without clinging to them, and the decoration remains very durable. Made in a twisted style, the chain shimmers and sparkles under the sun's rays. In full-length chains there are no cavities, and a hardening is formed on the surface, increasing the strength of the jewelry. Hand weaving is divided into fantasy and classic, massive in appearance and quite heavy in weight. The hand-woven chain in the sock is almost perfect: it does not break, does not cling to clothing, and allows the owner to determine the parameters independently.

Creation technology

The main material for jewelry is gold alloy. Gold does not oxidize, does not darken when in contact with the skin, and does not lose its properties during its use as jewelry. A gold chain serves its owner for a long time if it is not subjected to physical stress.

Gold chains emphasize the beauty of the face, neck, skin color, and look good on wrists, wide and narrow.

The production of “Venice” weaving chains is carried out in the so-called classic style. All links and brackets are made of the same type, no other decorations are added to them, no engraving is done.

Using traditional technology, each link is made by hand, and metal is added at bends to increase strength and wear resistance. The shape of the link and its thickness affect possible fragility if the flat links are not massive enough. The more massive the link, the more reliable the chain. Of course, the price of the product increases accordingly.

According to an alternative technology, a recess is made on the opposite edges of each ring into which the next link is inserted. This is the so-called “rib” connection, in which the links are connected to each other along the outer edge. This connection makes it possible, by changing the position of the links relative to each other, to obtain various forms of weaving, voluminous and beautiful patterns.

Features of Venetian weaving technology

Such an original weaving is often compared to the anchor method. Its characteristic feature is the alternation of flat and wide links. The width of the link usually does not exceed 8 mm, but the length is up to 1 cm. The link is often square or rectangular in shape. This will depend on what kind of metal alloy is used. In design and appearance, Venetian weaving looks sophisticated and extremely original. Therefore, such a product, be it a chain or a bracelet, can decorate absolutely any outfit. The technology itself belongs to the universal classical type. This is when all the links are identical to each other, their shape does not differ from each other. There are no additional engravings. The link in this plexus is created separately. And depending on the thickness and the created shape, two Venetian techniques are distinguished. This:

• Traditional technology. With this technique, each ring in the chain is made separately. Everything is done by hand. The craftsmen try to pay attention to the fusion in the fold areas. To make the weaving ultimately dense, gold and silver are diluted with an alloy of other metals.
• Alternative technology. The whole chain is made at once, so the rings are attached to each other one by one. To do this, a special notch is made in the area of ​​the edge of the previous link, into which the subsequent link is then attached. Thanks to this technology, rib weaving is obtained.

Using traditional technology, chains and bracelets are durable. And with an alternative method, Venetian weaving of a gold or silver chain makes it possible to give it volume. It is important to consider the size of the links and the type of fastening. The thinner the ring itself, the more elegant and delicate the finished product will look.

Advantages and disadvantages

Bismarck weaving symbolized reliability and rigor, precision and conciseness of lines. Similar massive accessories were worn in the 90s of the last century. “New Russians” considered rough chains an indicator of weight in society and status. A massive product weighing 100 grams or more emphasized the masculinity and tough character of the owner. Now the products are also popular among men, but have lost their criminal connotations. Characteristic advantages:

• Presentable appearance. The indicator was the main criterion for the popularity of a product among businessmen of the 90s. To add rigor to the look, a massive chain weighing more than 100 grams was used. The Bismarck weaving technology met such requirements.
• Reliable fastening of links. More often, chains are made by hand, which becomes the key to the strength of the finished product.
• Various types of weaving. Choose from openwork, square, angular, double, triple or royal “Bismarck”. It is advised to buy a simple flat chain or go for “Glamour” jewelry, decorated with mini-pearls.
• Fixation on the wrist. The weave adheres to the body and does not slip during movement.
• Duration of operation. Special equipment has elevated Bismarck chains to the rank of the most reliable, so the service life of the models reaches up to 50 years.
• Made from high-grade gold or silver. The decoration does not oxidize upon contact with the skin and does not leave green streaks.
• Harmonious combination with pendants. It is recommended to choose a pendant that is twice as light as the chain to avoid overloading the look. Both Christian crosses and Slavic amulets are suitable for this type of weaving.

Against the background of a number of advantages, disadvantages are noted. Bismarck weaving is not used in the manufacture of budget jewelry, so if you have limited funds you will not be able to purchase a massive chain. Young girls should be careful when choosing such a bracelet, which can overload the image.

Types of weaving: originality and style.

Venetian weaving is originality and style. Massive, wide chains or thin and graceful - jewelry focuses attention on the advantages of the owners. To make the weave you need rectangular links. They are connected to each other rigidly. To perform Venetian weaving, you need a real master, since it is important to combine beauty, strength and reliability. Ideal for romantics is rose weaving. The small links will connect so that they resemble a blooming rose bud. Such decorations look like a garland of miniature roses, increasing the attractiveness of a lady.

The masculine name for weaving, “garibaldi,” does not mean that only men can wear these jewelry. The chains are a little brutal, but ladies who choose short chains of this weave give the impression of being fragile and delicate. The “spike” weave got its name from the similarity of the weave to a wheat spike: the links form a “V” shaped pattern. The decoration is very impressive, and you can wear it with pendants or on its own. Diamond-shaped - these are diamond-shaped links interconnected. The classic is double weaving, but triple weaving means greater strength and reliability. Additional decorations for such chains are not boring: they already look very solid.

The incredibly dense and shiny chain is made using the “Abinata” technique. Usually they are made in it. These are the thinnest twigs that form a thin gold ribbon. There are no gaps between the links and the decoration is very durable and quite weighty. There are chains for wearing at the waist, from 90 cm, for pendants and pendants, from 45 cm and longer, and for wearing as jewelry, the length of such chains can be any. Different weaves mean different decorations. Some techniques give the chains grace and airiness, others - respectability and massiveness. It is important to consider what is being chosen: beauty, strength, or all at once? Depending on your preferences, you need to choose chains.

A gold chain is a universal decoration for all times. But choosing it is not as easy as it might seem at first glance, because there are so many important criteria. One of them is weaving. Not only the appearance of the product will depend on it, but also its durability, strength and ease of wear.

Types of weaving

There are quite a few varieties of chain creation known in the jewelry world: armor weaving and “Rhombus”, cord and anchor weaving, Venetian weaving and “Belzer”, “Love”, “Figaro” and many others. Techniques and their names have been created over the centuries, passed on from masters to students and polished to perfection.

Such diversity allows every jewelry lover to find his preferred look and create an image that reflects his character and demeanor. Focusing, of course, on your financial capabilities and taste.

Types of weaves

Today there are 15 methods, each of them has its own name and unique features. It is worth dwelling on the most popular types of Bismarck weaving:

1. Brook. The round links are woven as if flowing into each other. Chains made using this technique are massive, but their weight is light. Material consumption is low, so the products have an affordable price.
2. Python. New technology that is now in great demand. Performed manually. Chains made using this method are also called “American”, “whim”, “pharaoh”. Ideal for business style attire.
3. Cardinal. This technique can only be mastered by top-class craftsmen - double or triple weaving from links of different shapes, tightly connected to each other using hand soldering. The resulting products are of impressive volume and are used primarily by men.
4. Byzantium. This method creates exquisite, unique, custom-made jewelry. Weaving is done by hand, craftsmen create unique patterns. Pendants and pendants are not recommended for chains made using this technique.
5. Moscow. Weaving made in this way has a perfectly smooth surface, since the ends of the links are filed and sealed. At the end of manufacturing, the product is carefully leveled, all roughness is removed.
6. Round bismarck. The round links are intertwined, giving a large volume to the finished product. Jewelry is heavy and is purchased mainly by men. This method is also called royal or imperial.
7. Arabian Bismarck. The weaving got its name due to the fact that the finished decoration resembles Arabic script. Weaving is done in two or more rows, the antennae of the links are soldered on top in 4 places.
8. Fox's tail. Round-shaped chains are woven from oval, round and square links. Such products shimmer while walking.

Types of chain weaving

There are three basic technologies for knitting chains: “Anchor”, “Pantsirnaya” and “Bismarck”. Over time, they received so many variations that today there are more than 50 types of weaving: from the simplest to the most intricate with links of a complex configuration. Each weave has a special name and can be made in either gold or silver.

It’s easy to guess that “Anchor” weaving got its name due to its resemblance to the weaving of a real anchor chain. It is simple and uncomplicated. In the classic version of weaving, each link has an oval shape.

Links can consist of either one or two “rings”. Therefore, the “Double Anchor” technology is also distinguished.

An "anchor" weave with round shaped links is known as "Rollo". At one time, this type of knitting became popular thanks to the fashion house Chopard, so it has a second name - “Chopard”.

The Garibaldi weave is very similar to Rollo. The links of these chains have a round forked shape. It is believed that the knitting was named in honor of the spouses Giuseppe and Anita Garibaldi - folk heroes of the liberation movement of Italy, who were very friendly and shared each other’s views.

Fantasy types of “Anchor” weaving also include “Aurora” and “Hawaiian”.

“Shell” technology has become the basis for creating various types of decorative weaving. Its distinctive feature is that the flat links, polished on both sides, are not attached perpendicular to each other, but as if in the same plane. The technology, characterized by its high strength, got its name due to its resemblance to chain mail links.

Weaving can be single, double or triple, depending on the number of rings connected. A “shell” knit with diamond-shaped links is called “Diamond” (it can also be double or triple).

“Nonna” is one of the most elegant varieties of armor weaving. Thanks to the diamond edge applied on both sides, such chains shine more in the light. Despite the external sophistication, these jewelry are very durable. Oddly enough, the name of the weave has nothing to do with the woman's name. Nonna is short for the Italian maglia della nonna, which means "grandmother's weave."

An equally spectacular variety of armor knitting is “Figaro”, named after the famous comedy hero Beaumarchais, who was distinguished by his changeable temperament. Just like Figaro, weaving is characterized by “inconstancy” - links of different shapes, short and long, alternate in the chain. The most common combinations are from 1:1 to 1:5. Figaro chains gained popularity thanks to the jewelry house Cartier, and gradually became known as “Cartier”.

Often chains get their names due to the special shape of the links. Thus, the “rings” resembling hearts gave the name to the romantic and delicate weaving “Love”. Thanks to the links twisted into a spiral, the “Snail” weave appeared (it is also called “Paperclip” for the similarity of the “rings” with the stationery of the same name), and the divisions, similar to a beautiful flower, gave the name to the “Rose” chain.

A smooth, snake-like jewelry cord with tightly fitting links is known as a “Snake.” This weaving is comfortable for everyday wear, so it is often used not only in the manufacture of chains, but also bracelets for pendants and charms.

The most popular twisted weaves are the rope-like “Korda” and the “Singapore” shimmering in the sun. Such chains are usually worn by women. These decorations are elegant and at the same time reliable in use.

But “Bismarck” is considered a truly masculine type of weaving in Russia. Named, according to one version, in honor of the first Chancellor of the German Empire, Otto von Bismarck, he is also known as the “Kaiser” or “Cardinal”. This weaving is one of the most complex and is therefore often done by hand. Fantasy knitting consists of links, which in turn consist of several multidirectional “rings”. The weave can be double, triple or quadruple, making it one of the strongest. Due to its thickness and volume, one of the varieties of “Bismarck” was called “Python”.

An undeniable trend is the so-called fantasy chains. These decorations are distinguished by unusual types of weaving, a combination of different shades of metals, multi-layering and the inclusion of decorative “links”. Fantasy chains are more reminiscent of a necklace or beads and are a completely independent decoration that can be worn without a pendant.

What is Bismarck weaving?

Bismarck weaving is labor-intensive, but effective - the links consist of several multidirectional rings and are firmly connected to each other. The Bismarck twisting technique has been used by jewelers for a long time - time-tested, it has proven its reliability. Jewelry can be made by machine knitting or by hand (handmade, of course, is more highly valued). Jewelers say that a high-quality chain woven using this technology will easily withstand half a century of regular wear.

Bismarck gold and silver chains have many advantages:

• durable, rarely torn;
• the design is attractive and recognizable;
• many varieties of twisting;
• versatility - Vitier Bismarck is chosen by both women and men.

Chains woven in this style are in demand among people who value the combination of beauty and practicality. The links can be woven tightly, with minimal gaps between each other, or they can be planted at a certain distance, forming a loose but reliable weave.

• Most often, to create chains of this knitting, gold or silver wire with a thickness of 0.3-1.4 mm is used.
• In the 90s, this technique was used primarily for men's jewelry. At that time, chains in this style weighed tens of grams - it was believed that the more massive the chain, the higher the wealth and status of its owner.

Venetian weaving styles

• Straight weave of a strict classic style with one staple, simple work with a cross-sectional size from 3 mm to 6 mm.
• Round traditional style, voluminous with a rounded structure with one wide bracket. The work is of simple complexity, cross-section from 3 mm to 5 mm.
• Double elegant style, flat wide chain with two staples. The work is complex, the cross section is from 1 mm to 5 mm.
• Triple. A massive chain with three staples of very complex work. Cross section from 2 mm to 8 mm.

A double bracelet is more suitable for a woman in an evening dress. Worn on the wrist, the bracelet will certainly attract attention with the play of light.

A pompous triple-weave bracelet can also be worn by men in an informal setting. Large Venetian staples are for creating classic men's bracelets, small, thin ones are for women's products.

Often there are entire sets of jewelry based on Venetian weaving of the same style. This can include chains, bracelets, necklaces, and earrings. The fashion for chains will never weaken or disappear. Despite the apparent simplicity of choosing chains, the abundance of different types of weaving makes you wonder where to focus your attention. The chain should be beautiful, durable, and match the style of clothing, time and setting of the event.

Types of material

• Matted material. Forms when processing jewelry with brushes. This technology is suitable for making products for men and women who value jewelry not for its shine.
• Rhodium plating - gold is coated with a thin layer of rhodium. Such jewelry has a silvery shine. The products can be combined with green or blue evening dresses.
• With a diamond edge. Being under the rays of the sun gives the effect like a diamond. Achieving this result is possible through special processing with diamond cutters.

Which weave to choose?

Of course, first of all it is a matter of taste. However, some types of chains are traditionally classified as women's, men's or universal. Thus, the massive and solid “Bismarck” is most often preferred by representatives of the stronger sex, and the graceful “Nonna”, “Singapore”, “Rose”, “Love” and a number of other varieties are considered truly feminine. A typical unisex weaving option is “Anchor”.

For children, the most optimal are densely knitted chains, for example, “Snake”, as well as jewelry cords made of rubber or leather.

Solid or hollow: what's the difference?

All chains, regardless of the type of weaving, are divided into solid and hollow.

A distinctive feature of hollow chains is the combination of volume and lightness. The wire from which the decoration is woven is hollow inside, so despite the external thickness of the links, hollow chains have little weight. Most often they are made using complex decorative types of weaving and look quite solid. The advantage of such chains is their affordable price, which is determined by the weight of the product.

Solid chains are much heavier than hollow ones, which affects the cost of the jewelry. However, they are very comfortable for everyday wear, resistant to deformation and external influences and therefore durable. If the links are damaged, a specialist can easily solder the product and restore its original appearance.

The advantage of varieties of Venetian weaving products

Venetian is considered one of the most durable types of weaving. The links shimmer and shine in the light, despite the fact that there are no additional stones or engravings. Speaking of pendants, they are usually combined with chains in the following ratio:

• 
  if the size of the bracket is 2 mm, the pendant must be at least 4 mm;

• large links measuring 5 mm or more look good with massive pendants measuring 1 cm or more;
• fine weaving, where the link size is less than 1.8 mm, does not imply any pendants.

Preference is given to sets that are made in the same style. If the bracelet is decorated with a pendant, the necklace will serve as an independent decoration.

The simple and uncomplicated Venetian technique of weaving chains is one of the most complex - the ease of design lies in the labor-intensive and long process of fastening the links.

Therefore, it is appreciated by novice craftsmen and jewelry professionals.

In addition to the main advantages in classic styles, the Venice weaving chain is popular due to its varieties:

Criteria / VarietyStyle and general appearanceNumber of parallel bracketsSize of cross fastening / Difficulty of work

For a parallel connection, the number of rings that will serve as the determining factor is always taken. If we are talking about triple weaving, then there will be 3 parallel rings, and 2 connecting rings. The same is true in double weaving. There are always fewer connecting links than parallel ones - this is a feature of multi-layer Venetian weaving.

Since straight and round weaving of bracelets and necklaces belongs to the traditional strict style, a variety of double and triple presentation of jewelry can be selected for modern looks. For an elegant evening dress, a double-layer bracelet is suitable for a woman. It will look elegant on the wrist - the staples are thin, nondescript, small and wide. Can be complemented with a small pendant or a small pendant.

Strict straight lines of round and straight weaving are suitable for men who prefer to wear classics and a free style of clothing.

Triple Venetian weaving is considered an accessory of a pompous style - parties and meetings in informal settings allow the presence of such jewelry in men's looks.

Regardless of the activity and image of the owner, the Venetian style in jewelry can be appropriate in almost any situation. Thanks to such a wide range of weaving techniques, you can complement any outfit with accessories.

What to consider when choosing?

So what should you consider when choosing a weave?

• How are you going to wear the chain: on its own or with a pendant or pendant? In the first case, you can choose almost any product, but it must be an independent and original accessory, so complex and voluminous weaves are suitable. If you plan to put a pendant on the chain, then it should not be too voluminous and not overly flashy. Simpler types of weaving are welcome.
• Who will wear the chain? All types of weaving are conventionally divided into male, female and universal. The first look simpler and sometimes even rough, the second are more original and interesting, and the third are distinguished by elegant simplicity and are suitable for both sexes and all ages.
• The age of the person. Young people should pay attention to original and stylish types of weaving. And at a more mature age, laconic, conservative and elegant models would be appropriate.
• Strength. Some types of weaving are distinguished by increased reliability and durability, while others should be worn extremely carefully and carefully.

Bismarck: suitable for everyone or not?

This jewelry weaving is rightfully considered universal, because thanks to various knitting techniques you can choose the right product for completely different people. Chains of this knitting are chosen by men and women, representatives of different professions, people with different styles of clothing. Theoretically, Bismarck chains can be worn by everyone, but in practice they do not look appropriate on everyone.

• Massive gold chains look inappropriate on young girls - with such jewelry the girl looks older. But on middle-aged and older women, voluminous jewelry looks impressive.
• Jewelry of this type is not suitable for lovers of small, elegant pendants. With a voluminous jewelry chain, you should wear pendants that are appropriate in size (the optimal weight ratio of pendant to chain is 1:2) or not wear them at all.
• Guys with a thin build should be careful when choosing a Bismarck chain - a chain that is too thick will look strange, give preference to products of medium thickness.

Bismarck weaving accounts for the lion's share of chains made all over the world. Such production volumes are justified by the highest demand - Bismarck jewelry is reliable and durable, looks attractive and is liked by almost everyone.