Joel Arthur Rosenthal
Joel Arthur Rosenthal (better known as JAR) began his jewelry career 40 years ago after earning a degree in art history from Harvard. In 1977, the designer, who learned the craft of a jeweler on his own, opened his small shop on Place Vendôme in Paris, and since then he has not changed his place of work.
Each and every one of Rosenthal's works are extraordinary "living" jewelry sculptures adorned with vibrant gemstones. Many pieces of jewelry often use alloys of blackened silver and gold, which Joel himself developed.
Every year he creates about a hundred new jewelry creations (some of which are made to order), which are in incredible demand at auction. As of today, auction houses have sold 14 of the jeweler’s products, and the price of each of them was more than one million dollars. The record was held by the Camellia ruby brooch, sold in 2012 for $4.3 million.
We list the 5 best jewelers in Russia:
- Maxim Voznesensky is the creator and director of the Jewelry Theater.
- Denis Nesterov is the creator of unique products and the DOGUMA brand.
- Ekaterina Kostrigina leads a team that works primarily in the classic “Petersburg” style.
- Alexander Tenzo is the creator of unique collections of gems.
- Konstantin Kryukov - his masterpieces are sold under the Saplings brand.
Of course, the Russian jewelry community is not limited to these five names. There are many more talented jewelers in our country who have already received recognition abroad. Perhaps in the following articles we will introduce you to other prominent representatives of the Russian jewelry community.
And now we will present in more detail each of the five jewelers whom our experts consider the best jewelers in Russia.
Stefan Hemmerle
In 1893, brothers Joseph and Anton Hemmerle founded a jewelry company in Munich, the name of which became their surname. The Hemmerle jewelry brand has earned its fame because from the day of its founding it immediately began producing crowns and medals for top officials of the state and army.
A century later, Stefan and his family somewhat revised the concept of the jewelry house and directed all their efforts to apply innovations and unusual techniques in their craft. Hemmerle began to resort to using custom metals in combination with high-quality gemstones - for example, they could easily set a flawless and D-color diamond in iron or copper.
Over the past 15 years, the jewelry company managed by Stefan Hemmerle has produced many amazing jewelry, which are incredibly realistic flowers and tempting fruits. In their work, the craftsmen used materials that, it would seem, have no place in jewelry. From copper flora and brass fauna to aluminum jewelry with diamonds and sapphires, Hemmerle's imagination and daring know no bounds.
David Yurman
Before he plunged headlong into the world of jewelry in 1980, David Yurman spent a lot of time cultivating his own artistic vision. In the early 90s, Yurman completed his college studies and went on a long hitchhiking trip across the country. At this time he also became interested in sculpture, which he studied under the guidance of Jacques Lipchitz.
After spending several years producing and selling handcrafted jewelry in Northern California, David and his wife founded their own jewelry brand, David Yurman. And for more than 30 years, laconic silver jewelry for men and women from David Yurman has been incredibly popular all over the world.
Most recently, his collection was replenished with titanium jewelry.
Luxurious diamonds, magnificent necklaces, exquisite wedding rings - jewelry attracts and fascinates: what have the designers come up with this time? Trends are set by leading world-famous jewelry houses. To get into this rating, you need to be one step ahead, have an indestructible reputation like a diamond, and have a rich history. And it all started once with one single genius, personality, creator, whose name turned into a recognizable brand. Who are they, world-famous jewelers?
Our list opens with Tiffany, a big name familiar even to those who are far from the jewelry industry. The fame of the jewelry house, named after its founder Charles Lewis, was brought not only by the film “Breakfast at Tiffany’s.” The brand's calling card is innovation. Tiffany was the first to decorate engagement rings with square diamonds rather than round ones, which allowed them to outperform their competitors in the fine craft. The craftsmen had time to polish the design - the brand has been producing products since 1837.
A decade later, Louis-François Cartier made his name famous by founding the Cartier brand. The jewelry of this brand personifies an entire era. Jewelers experiment with a variety of precious metals and precious minerals, creating affordable silver cutlery and masterpieces for European royalty with equal skill. Cartier himself was inspired by antiquity and the exoticism of China, Persia and India. His famous toiletries made of enamel, rubies, sapphires, platinum and yellow gold are works of art that convey the magical atmosphere of unknown countries, and according to legend, one of the landscapes on the boxes was painted by the great Makovsky. The famous Cartier collection called Love has firmly won the love of millions of fashionistas around the world. The collection is presented in the form of gold jewelry, which is opened and closed using a special gold screwdriver. The secret is that you cannot do this on your own - you need a loved one who will help you do it.
Also, the famous “Nails” collection from Cartier is known all over the world! The first Nail bracelet in the form of a bent nail was created in 1971 by Italian designer Aldo Cipullo, who decided to take a fresh look at the objects that surround us in everyday life. It was he who laid the foundation for the Juste un Clo collection.
Perhaps the most famous jeweler was the legendary Carl Faberge. His works are now the property of museum collections and private collections. The most famous masterpieces of the official supplier of the Supreme Court of the Romanovs are Easter eggs, more than fifty of them were created by order of the royal family. It’s curious, but Faberge also became famous for decorative flowers. Gold accessories in miniature vases made of rock crystal captivate with their masterly execution.
We saved Fawaz Gruosi for dessert. The famous jeweler worked for the houses of Chopard and Bvlgari, and in 1994 he created his own brand, de Grisogono, giving the world black diamonds. A recognizable feature of the brand is massive jewelry with an impressive number of carats, in demand by show business stars and the political elite.
Wallace Chan
Since his teenage years, the young future jeweler drew inspiration for his first projects from the beauty of precious stones. It is therefore not surprising that Wallace Chan opened his first workshop in Hong Kong at the age of 17.
Wallace Chan's unusual works, created using the lightest titanium and uniquely cut gemstones, have allowed him to be included in such eminent events as the European Fine Art Exhibition, the Antiques Biennale and Masterpiece of London.
In addition, Wallace Chan invented a new cut known today as the Wallace Cut. The essence of the invention is that a tiny hole is drilled on the back of a cut stone. Through this mini-hole, the master makes an engraving inside the stone, creating the effect of a three-dimensional image. If you look at the result of the work from the front of the stone, the image will appear in an unusual way inside the crystal.
From time to time, Chan enters into collaboration agreements with various artists and designers. In this way, in partnership with other talented individuals, about 20 real jewelry masterpieces are created annually.
The best Russian jewelers and their precious masterpieces
How often are we used to seeing Chopard, Cartier, Bvlgari - famous foreign brands - on celebrities! We don’t argue that the products of these “mastodons” are beyond praise. But do you know what incredibly talented and skilled jewelers were born and work in Russia? Precious masterpieces of many of them are sold not only to private collections, but are acquired by world museums. In this article we will tell you about 5 famous Russian jewelers, whose works can impress even the most demanding audience.
Vladimir Markin
Vladimir Markin embodies his love for mechanisms, nature and even simple everyday things in gold and precious stones. His style is recognizable. Original accessories are not static, they live their own lives, change, transform into other forms. Surprise earrings, pencil cufflinks or a gold pendant in the form of a drying pendant interspersed with black diamonds - his works are filled with engineering thought and life philosophy.
Ilgiz Fazulzyanov
It is worth writing separate articles about the artist and jeweler Ilgiz Fazulzyanov. Such people are considered national treasures in themselves. In professional circles, Fazulzyanov is called the “king of enamel.” His works were twice awarded the Grand Prix of the International Jewelery Design Excellence Award - in 2011 and 2013. No other artist has received this honor. Masterpieces released under the Ilgiz F. brand combine incredible expressiveness and a unique palette of colors. At the moment, no jeweler in the world can replicate this effect!
Liza Borzaya
The original “Swallow” palm bracelet has become the calling card of Russian jeweler Liza Borzoi. The author's works demonstrate the boldness, uniqueness of design and high demands on the quality of products, which was typical for small Parisian jewelry workshops of the early twentieth century. An incredible combination of ultra-modern and at the same time charmingly old-fashioned design makes Lisa Borzoi's work closer to the world of collectible art than to the world of the jewelry industry.
Yaroslav Argentov
Almost 20 years ago, Yaroslav Argentov’s workshop developed its own unique style, which makes it possible to unmistakably recognize his works among a huge number of decorations. The brand's jewelers are restoring the lost skill of the art of reverse intaglio, a unique stone carving technology. Yaroslav Argentov's jewelry is famous for its incredibly delicate work, which seems impossible to create with human hands.
Vlad Glynin
This is the same case when millionaire customers are ready to wait for years for the work of a famous artist. Vlad Glynin is a laureate of numerous prestigious competitions. The style of his works gravitates towards the jewelry avant-garde. The master never repeats his products, and his precious works of art replenish the collections of the largest museums in the world.
Creating jewelry is always about finding yourself, your worldview, jewelry techniques and suitable forms. Follow the progress of the competition for designers and creative people who are not indifferent to what is on display in jewelry stores!
The winners’ jewelry can be found in the windows of the “OUR GOLD” chain of salons, where you can purchase a unique piece of jewelry from a rising star in the jewelry world!
Michelle Ong
Michelle was born into a family of doctors, and initially she was expected to have a very traditional career dedicated to helping people - she graduated from university with a specialization in sociology. However, at some time, the teenage dream took over and the future designer gave up everything in order to become an apprentice to the first diamantaire-importer in Hong Kong.
During her studies, she mastered the science of working with precious stones, types of cutting, and learned about all the modern and complex materials used in jewelry of our time. And after Michelle gathered a small but loyal group of clients, in 2003 she decided to open her own jewelry brand, which she called “Carnet by Michelle Ong.”
Michelle Ong creates feminine and elegant jewelry that harmoniously combines Eastern and Western influences.
Michelle Ong – harmony of form and style
This fragile Asian woman refuses to present her creations to the public until they seem perfect to her. And such exactingness justifies itself - the name of the craftswoman has long become synonymous with filigree elaboration of every detail. It's no wonder that her accessories made of diamonds, pink sapphires, emeralds, jadeite and titanium are happily worn by Kate Winslet, Glenn Close and Reese Witherspoon.
Michelle was born into a family of doctors in Hong Kong and, at the insistence of her parents, had to receive a sociological education. But one day she decided to realize her dream - to become a designer. To do this, the girl became an apprentice to a diamond importer. And already in 1985 she founded, which in 2003 turned into the jewelry house “Carnet by Michelle Ong”.
Viren Bhagat
Having essentially grown up within the walls of a department store run by his father and mother, Viren found his calling in creating miniature jewelry. Following his passion, Bhagat managed to master all the basics of jewelry art. His jewelry is distinguished by the fact that it combines both elements of his native Indian culture and Art Deco aesthetics.
The talented jeweler was called the “Indian JAR” for the vibrant artistry of his jewelry - Viren Bhagat first carefully draws each of them on paper, and only after he is completely satisfied with the project, he exposes his work to criticism by a team of experienced craftsmen.
The Bhagat jewelry brand annually produces just over 60 jewelry masterpieces, which are made primarily using stones such as rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and diamonds.
Victoire de Castellane
Today Victoire is known primarily for her fabulous precious works created within the walls of the Dior jewelry house, however, her career began within the walls of another, no less famous jewelry brand.
When Victoire turned 24 years old, she became an assistant to the legendary Karl Lagerfeld himself. Karl was just thinking about rethinking the concept of the Chanel brand after its creator Mademoiselle Coco passed away. Lagerfeld was impressed by the bold aesthetic and playful design of his young assistant's creations, Victoire de Castellane. This allowed her to quickly become the head of the brand’s jewelry division, creating many bright and spectacular jewelry during her work at Chanel.
After Victoire devoted 10 years of her life to working at Chanel, in 1998 she accepted an offer to head the Dior Joaillerie direction at the famous jewelry house. Here, as creative director, she became responsible for jewelry from the high jewelry category. Today, Victoire de Castellane has become the author of many unusual jewelry collections that cannot be forgotten once seen.
Results of the Tefaf exhibition in Maastricht
The TEFAF exhibition (The European Fine Art Fair) is one of the most important international events in the field of art, including jewelry. Every year since 1988, specialists from leading museums and galleries and collectors from all over the world come to the small Dutch town of Maastricht. This year, due to the pandemic, the exhibition took place from March 7 to 11 and closed prematurely, but still took place and became the only large-scale event in the art and jewelry business.
Since 2021, the exhibition has also received branches in New York, but the historical version in Holland remains the main one. TEFAF owes its impeccable reputation to a committee of specialists who select exhibitors and exhibits, ensuring buyers that they are dealing with verified works of art. Among the members of the selection committee are experts from museums known for the best jewelry collections: London's Victoria and Albert Museum and Amsterdam's Rijksmuseum. It is especially honorable for modern jewelers to be represented at TEFAF. According to the principles of the exhibition, their works must combine unusual design, innovative use of materials and impeccable execution.
The jewelers presented at TEFAF avoid publicity; you can see their work live only by making an appointment. We will never see most of the jewelry, even in pictures: the privacy of future owners is valued above fame on the Internet and in the press.
Viren Bhagat
The participation in TEFAF of a non-public jewelry genius, whose works are in the greatest private collections such as Al-Thani, was highly anticipated by fans of jewelry art. This is the first event where Viren Bhagat will present more than 50 jewelry pieces at once and be present in person. Previously, his work at TEFAF could be seen in the FD Gallery collection. Viren is a fifth generation jeweler. Continuing the family business, thanks to his own unique style, he transferred it to the category of art. A distinctive feature of Bhagat jewelry is the use of flat-cut diamonds and an almost invisible setting. Inspired by the rich Indian culture, his jewelery features stones that appear to float in the air. Non-standard shapes are cut in our own workshops in India, so there are practically no analogues to be found. They worked on the jewelry presented at TEFAF for a whole year, but, preserving the privacy of their future owners, only two were provided for publication in the press: a ring with a magnificent sapphire and an amazing ring of diamond discs-beads and earrings with opals and emeralds.
Vamgard
For the second year in a row, visitors to the exhibition were absolutely delighted by the works of Italian jeweler Maurizio Fioranta, working under the Vamgard brand. This year, the finest Roman micromosaic received an addition in the form of a carbon fiber base. Working with a new material for high jewelry, Maurizio was able to take the best of its characteristics and find technologies that will transform industrial fibers into jewelry. Carbon is used in combination with thin threads of bronze. Without a detailed examination, it seems that this is wood: the smoothly polished surface evokes associations with Japanese varnish. Despite its apparent massiveness, carbon is surprisingly light, which is very important for the wearability of jewelry. Combining the best of history and modernity, Vamgard is an excellent example of high jewelry today.
Maurizio is exclusively represented by the London gallery Symbolic & Chase, founded 13 years ago by Martin Travis, a specialist at the Christie's auction house, and known for its sensitive curatorial approach.
Theodoros
Another contemporary jeweler who does his best to avoid publicity is represented by Symbolic & Chase galleries. Theodoros Savopoulos creates precious works in Athens. Working in the best traditions of Art Deco, the jeweler pays special attention to technical solutions. The diamond necklace presented at the exhibition amazed not only with its unusual design and 180 carats of diamonds, but also with its extraordinary flexibility: each diamond square is an independent link, and as a result the necklace fits perfectly on the shoulders.
Sabba
The works of Alessandro Sabbatini, known as Sabba, are more attractive than others to visit the stand of the New York FD Gallery. The bold forms of his jewelry, embodied in titanium, amaze with their size and lightness. Having worked for Carnet and Cartier by the age of 26, Alessandro began producing jewelry under his own name with the support of another influential gallery - Symbolic & Chase - and Arthur Rosenthal (JAR) himself in 2014. Today, Sabba jewelry is some of the most coveted on the Hollywood red carpet. At the same time, the young jeweler himself leads a completely non-public life in Paris, producing no more than 100 masterpieces a year.
Hemmerle
The stand of the Bavarian jewelers Hemmerle is in the very center of the jewelry exposition of the exhibition. Despite a long tradition of more than 125 years, the fourth generation of the family, Christian and Yasmin, know how to remain modern and treat jewelry as an art. About 200 unique pieces of jewelry are created every year in Munich workshops. The uniqueness of Hemmerle is due to the “inverted” setting of the stones with the spike facing up, subtle color schemes - combinations of colored stones with anodized tone-on-tone aluminum, inspired by modern art, as well as bold experiments with materials from glass beads to bronze. The jewelry presented at TEFAF was united by the theme of using historical artifacts. Among them are earrings with a pair of Roman micromosaics from 1828, a sautoir with a handmade glass bead from the 19th century, and earrings with ceramic plates depicting parrots, framed in elegant checks and decorated with bright pavé on the reverse side. Also inspired by the work of futurists such as Italian artist Lucio Fontana, who experimented with breaking out of the plane of the canvas, Hemmerle has released several pieces in which pavé-studded spheres are hidden in an openwork metal shell. Even upon closer inspection, the joints on the metal cannot be found - the jewelry trick, contrary to the laws of physics, was completely successful.
Ines Kovaleva
Ambaji Shinde
At one time, it was Ambaji Shinde who radically influenced the style and design of jewelry from one of the most famous jewelry brands in the world - Harry Winston. Founder Harry Winston was a visionary, luring an aspiring designer who was working for an Indian jewelry company in 1962. And already in 1966, Shinde headed the New York design studio of the Harry Winston company.
Together with Mr. Winston, they constantly traveled and in a short time traveled the entire globe in search of wealthy clients with special needs. This lasted until the head of the company died in 1978.
In the 25 years since the tragic tragedy, Ambaji Shinde has devoted himself to helping to cultivate the company's signature jewelry style, while simultaneously creating the House of Harry Winston's most famous and luxurious pieces.
"King of Diamonds" Ambaji Shinde
He was born in 1917 in a fishing village in Goa. The boy was interested in art, theater and jewelry. After graduating from school, the young man became a jewelry designer in one of the largest Bombay companies. There he made accessories for the richest Indian families - in particular, the young master was entrusted with sketches of jewelry for the coronation of the Maharaja of Nepal.
In 1962, Ambaji Shine was invited to work by the head of the legendary Harry Winston house. This decision formed the brand’s recognizable style. The jeweler introduced thin platinum frames into fashion, and also invented the “cluster” - a method of fastening when gems seem to float in the air, supporting each other. The best example of his style is the “Star of Independence” necklace with a 75.52 carat diamond.
The designer's works are worn by Elizabeth II, Michelle Pfeiffer, Sophia Loren, and Sharon Stone.
Gianmaria Buccellati
Mario Buccellati founded his family jewelry company in Milan back in 1919, when he was only 28 years old. From the very beginning, Buccellati products stood out from their competitors not only in their quality, but also in their complexity of execution.
From the very beginning until today, each Buccellati jewel is handcrafted from gold, silver or platinum. The jewelry attracts attention with its unusual texture, which sometimes resembles delicate fabric, or a pattern of flowers, or a pattern of leaves.
When Mario's son, Gianmaria Buccellati, took over the reins of the family company in 1966, he immediately began to actively promote his brand on the world market. He sought to increase the recognition of signature Italian jewelry at a foreign level.
Thus, branded stores appeared in Paris, Tokyo, as well as the Beverly Hills area in the USA. Under his leadership, Buccellati not only continued to use the signature techniques of rigato (the surface of the metal is covered with many relief parallel stripes) and telato (many strokes on the surface create the effect of fabric), but also introduced new directions. This can be seen when looking at the Animalier and Unica collections.
In March 2015, Gianmaria died, and his son Andrea took over the leadership of the company, continuing to embody bright artistic ideas in the jewelry of the Buccellati jewelry house.
